carpenter



O. O. CARPENTER.

(No Model.)

BUSTLE.

Patented Mar. 6, 1888.

N4 PETERS. Pholo-Liihngnphlr. Walhingtun. 0.;

Unrrnn STATES PATENT Urrrca.

CHARLES C. CARPENTER, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

BUSTLE.

SPECIFICATION forming partof Letters Patent No. 379,001, dated Which 6, 1888.

(No modeLl To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, CHARLES C. CARPEN- TER, of the city and county of New York, in the State of New York, have invented a certain new and useful Improvement in Bustles, of which the following is a specification.

My bustle is of that class in which a set of curved springs extend across the back,pivoted to a suitable-support at each end, and arranged to allow the bustle to be collapsed and distended by the springs turning on the pivotal points. A tape or analogous flexible connection extends up and down the center of the back of the bustle and is secured to each spring to regulate the posit-ion of each when the bustle is distended. A flexible band in two parts, provided with a buckle or analogous provision for shortening and lengthening, extends across the front of the bustle, by lengthening and shortening which the curvature .of the whole set of springs or spring-bows may be increased or diminished and the bustle distended or caused to project rearward more or less at pleasure. The gravity of the springs and of the dress depending therefrom cannot be relied on to exert a sufficient force to efiect the distention. The clothing is liable to become entangled and obstruct the action, so that a greater amount of force is required. Many efforts have been made to introduce springs to effect this action when the bustle is collapsed-the urging rear ward and downward of the lowermost spring of the set, and consequently the stretching of the tape which extends up and down the back, and the moving of all the several springs into their correct positions to hold the bustle distended. It is not easy to arrange a proper distending-spring in such a garment, and the tensile springs usually employed involve object-ions. I have discovered that by the simple application of one more spring of the same general character as the others, but pivoted to points above the center of the others and connecting it at the center of the back to'the lowermost spring, I can render available the elasticity both of this added spring and of the lowermost spring to exert the required force in bringing down all the springs into position as soon as the force which held them up has been removed. My present improved bustle is based thereon.

In what I esteem the most complete form of the invention a single spring extends across in an arched form in an upright or nearly upright position, and constitutes at the same time the uppermost spring of the series of springs and the side frames to which all the other springs are pivoted, the added spring being pivoted to this spring at the proper distance above the main pivot. The waist-band,whieh may be of the ordinary character and provided, as usual, with a buckle at the front, is connected to this upright spring by a small piece of flexible fabric cut in the proper shape and sewed or otherwise attached.

The accompanying drawings form a part of this specification and represent what I consider the best means of carrying out the in vention.

Figure 1 is a side elevation showing the bustle distended. Fig. 2 is a corresponding view showing the bustle partially collapsed. Fig. 3 is a horizontal section through certain portions on the line 00 min Fig. 1. This shows the relative position of the lower spring and the added spring when the bustle is distended.

Fig. 4 is a section on the inclined line y y in Fig. 2. This shows the relative position of the springs when the bustle is collapsed.

Similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts in all the figures where they occur.

A is a foundation-spring of arched form, the center of which lies near the waistband and the ends of which extend up and down on each side, so that the ends of this spring can serve as side frames to support the pivots of the other springs, as will presently appear.

B is the waistband, and O a piece of properlyshaped fabric, sometimes termed a wing, connecting A and B.

D D D D are a series of springs or springbows extending acrossthe rear and pivoted to the spring A at the points (I. They are connected to each other and to the center of the spring A by a flexible tape, E, which determines the lowest position to which each can descend. They .are capable of being raised by turning on the pivots d and thus collapsing the bustle.

G is what I term the added spring. Its center is riveted at m to the lowermost spring, D, of the series. Its ends are pivoted to the spring A at the points 9 g a just sufficient distance above d d, and the parts are so proportioned that in applying them together this added spring G is subjected to a moderate compressive strain and the attached spring D to a moderate tensile strain, even when the bustle is distended, which strains are increased when the bustle is collapsed, as will presently appear. The additional spring G lies outside of the others.

Vhen the bustle is collapsed and all the springs are moved up into nearly the vertical position, the fact that the pivots d and g are not coincident, but that the latter are considerably the highest, subjects the lowermost spring, D, and the added spring G to an increased strain, the portions between the ends aud the center of the added spring being swelled outward beyond their previous positions and the corresponding portions of the spring D being drawn inward within their previous positions. Both these springs D and G resist these distortions and inducea tendency to return these springs, and consequently all the other parts, to their original positions. So soon as the pressure of the back of the seat or other force holding the bustle collapsed is removed, the elastic action of these springs D and G returns them to theirprevious depressed position and distends the bustle to its original condition.

H is a flexible band in two lengths extending across the front of the bustle and provided with a buckle, h, which allows it to be taken up and let out at will. This performs the same functions as the corresponding parts in other bustles of this class.

Modifications may be made without departing from the principle or sacrificing the advantages of the invention. I prefer that the added spring G be stout and that the bottom spring, D, beslighter. This proportion allows better for the proper action of the springs or spring-bows when the bustle is pressed against from the rear without being lifted; and when the bustle is collapsed properly by lifting,and the bottom spring, D, is subjected to a tensile strain and the added spring G to a compressing strain, the superior strength of the added spring enables it to endure the conditions. The bottom spring, D, is drawn into an approximately V shape, with the apex of the V at the baek,while the added spring G is thrown into two strong curves, one on each side, while themiddleis nearly straight, or perhaps curved slightly inward, approximating the outline of an hourglass. I esteem these the best proportions, but they may be varied even to such an extent that the lower spring, D, will substan tially maintain a uniform figure, and all the yielding will be done by the added spring G, or, on the other hand, that the added spring may maintain its figure, and all the yielding may be done by the bottom spring, D.

I have represented the springs D D D as differing in strength, the spring D being slight, like the spring D, and the springs D D being stout, like the springs A and G. I prefer these proportions; but they may be varied.

I claim as my invention- 1. In a bustle, the side supports extending up and down, two spring-bows, D and G, attached together at the back at m and free to spring, asshown, in combination with the pivots d and set at different heights in the side supports, and with a flexible band or tape, E, connecting the fastening m at the back with the waistband, as herein specified.

2. In abustle, the foundation spring-bow A, extending across and serving as the frame on each side, in combination with the spring-bows D G, pivoted to said bow A at d g and riveted at m, and with the spring-bows D D D and connecting-tape E, and with a suitable waistband, B, and connecting-piece C, as herein specified.

In testimony whereof Ihave hereunto set my hand, at New York city, this 30th day of August, 1887, in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

CHAS. C. CARPENTER.

Witnesses:

CHARLES R. SEARLE, M. F. BOYLE. 

